September 21, 2005
Epicurean Classic delivers food for thought
Event brings students and top chefs together
By Carol South
Herald contributing writer
Doling out poached pears on plates, Ashley Hansen was in her element Saturday morning.
The aspiring chef and second year student in the Great Lakes Culinary Institute was working with Craig Lewkowitz, pastry chef at the Grand Traverse Resort. Together they were putting together a five-course Chocolate in Autumn feast he created for the Traverse Epicurean Classic.
The three-day event, held at the Northwestern Michigan College's Culinary Institute, mixed famous chefs, enthusiastic attendees and eager students for cooking classes, wine classes, wine tastings and gala dinners.
One of more than 100 institute students helping out during the event - with everything from serving, food prep, demonstrations, cooking and clean up - Hansen also found out that the famous chefs are both human and fun.
"I actually got to sit in on Mario Batali's session and he's not like a stuffy chef you'd expect from TV," she said. "He actually burned the garlic. He was saying, 'Make sure the pan is not too hot,' and he throws in the garlic and it burns so he says, 'Like this.' He dumped the garlic out on the table and started again."
For the second year, students in the Culinary Institute have rubbed shoulders, sliced and saut‚ed with top-notch chefs from around the country and region. The experience provides an unprecedented learning opportunity for them, said Fred Laughlin, director of the institute.
"They got to work shoulder to shoulder with some of the country's top chefs and some of the biggest restaurant people in the nation," he noted. "I know from talking with them yesterday, we did a short evaluation, that they all loved it."
"A couple got job offerings, one with Andy Husband and another with Mario's group, so what more could you ask for?" Laughlin said, adding. "This event allows a small community college in northern Michigan that's out of the population centers to get some name recognition."
Renee Builes, a second year student, said students hit the ground running this week. Builes is a 20-year veteran of the restaurant industry who owns A Catered Affair with her husband, Jose. Both enrolled in the Culinary Institute last fall to enhance their skills and get a degree in their chosen field.
"We're learning how to do things we've never done before," she noted of the Traverse Epicurean Classic week. "I haven't gotten to see everything, I've been working with the chefs preparing food."
On Friday, Builes worked with Joe Borrello, executive director of the International Taster's Guild, as he presented a program on pairing wine and food. She wanted to boost her knowledge of this area of fine dining. She also planned to assist Pete Peterson and Jeremy Kittelson of Tapawingo in Ellsworth, on a program of cooking with the seasons using northern Michigan ingredients.
"It's good getting thrown in the deep end of the pool, it's sink or swim and so far everybody's swimming," Builes said.
Andy Husband, who owns three restaurants in Boston and has written "The Fearless Chef," presented a program on Fearless Grilling Saturday afternoon. He also helped create the event's grand reception meal Saturday night for 700 guests. While working in the Great Lakes Culinary Institute's extensive kitchens, Husband was impressed by the student chefs who assisted him, praising their can-do attitudes and solid base of skills.
"It's been great, everybody's been super talented," he said. "I do a lot of these things and these kids are really go-getters. I just gave an assignment to one and I know he'll do it right."
Husband, who has worked in the industry for 22 years, also enjoyed getting to meet and work with some of the other 30 professionals at the event.
"This is also special, getting to know the other chefs," he said.