May 30, 2001

Sweet season begins for fudge makers

Memorial Day weekend ushers in busy summer for stores

By GARRET LEIVA
Herald editor
       While there are four official calendar seasons, Memorial Day weekend kicks off another time in northern Michigan - fudge season.
      While rainy skies might have kept visitors off the beach, the wafting aroma of chocolate sent them shopping downtown. Whether it is the sugar or the cream, fudge has a way of making everyone act like a kid at Willy Wonka's factory. Which explains all the agape mouth prints dotting the picture window at Kilwin's.
      For Brian Daily, having people watch you work adds to the enjoyment and the product.
      "A consistent recipe and temperature are key in making quality fudge. The third most important part is the personality," noted Daily, who owns the Front Street store with his wife, Mary.
      Under the watchful eye of customers, fudge is created using 10 pound blocks of chocolate, a copper kettle, marble table tops and forearm straining stirring. Daily noted that the whole process takes "45 minutes from the pot to selling it in the case." Multiply that by 35 batches on a busy summer day and that equals a ton of fudge.
      Creating a consistently creamy fudge boils down to following the recipe. After the chocolate is brought up to temperature, the batch is poured out between steel rails which keeps the fudge on the marble table and off the floor. Once the mixture cools to room temperature, the rails are removed and a large paddle is used to cream the ingredient. Then it is time to 'loaf around' as the workers use scrapers to shape the fudge. The last step is to cut the lengthy loaf into half-pound slices.
      While it seems a simple step-by-step procedure, Dale Murdick knows it takes time to master the fine art of fudge making. After all, Murdick has been involved with his family's business since he was 14 years old. From an early age, he learned the nuances of crafting flavorful fudge.
      "The quality of ingredient will determine the flavor as will the temperature. Even a half degree can make the fudge too hard or too soft," noted Murdick, who uses the original family fudge recipe.
      Also making fudge the old-fashion way is The Chocolate Den.
      Crafting homemade chocolates is indeed a family affair for Dennis and Glenda Garrow along with their sons, Philip and Douglas. The Front Street store makes a variety of handmade truffles, caramels, taffy and specialty chocolate molds. However, some people are only looking for one thing in the display case.
      "The fudgies like their fudge, they don't go after the other chocolates," said Douglas, stirring a batch of butter pecan fudge on the stovetop.
      Set up much like a home kitchen, the Garrows make fudge using their own particular recipe poured out in bread pans. Older brother, Philip said this method produces a creamy fudge they find isn't gritty or too sugary. The process is labor intensive and time consuming as each pan must cool for 24 hours.
      With customers peppering you with questions, it would be easy to lose your cool cooking over a hot kettle all day. Fudge makers like Daily, however, find that a dash of humor is just the right ingredient.
      "We have customers ask if the fudge is fat free and I tell them we've never charged for it yet."